While the “Pura Vida” Lifestyle Might be a Fit for Some, It’s Not a Fit for Everyone.
Costa Rica is known to the world as the land of “Pura Vida” (Pure Life). But...
Costa Rica’s a place where folks take life as it comes and don’t stress too much. A place where they enjoy a lifestyle that’s more in harmony with Nature, more relaxed, happier, warm and sunny – in a live-and-let-live culture. Many simply call it, “paradise.”
And it’s all true!
It’s also true that there are two sides to every coin. For many who made the move here, living in Costa Rica turned out to be very different than what they had imagined or planned for. Costa Rica, the land of Pura Vida, is also known as the land of the “wanted and the unwanted.” And some people end up falling into one or both categories when they fail to adapt to, embrace, and deal with the changes in lifestyle - and especially culture - that come with the new reality of living here.
Let that sink in. Because maybe the question you should REALLY be asking yourself is, “Is Costa Rica right for ME?
"Toto, I've a feeling we're not in Kansas anymore." – Dorothy in “The Wizard of Oz”
It’s what many people say to themselves upon their first arrival to Costa Rica. The place not only looks different, but it also feels different. From the fresh air, sunshine, and even the invigorating downpours, to the laid-back, relaxed, friendly and carefree manner of Costa Ricans (a.k.a. “Ticos”), the vibe here is a world away from wherever they may have come.
For many, this is the very moment they’re hooked on the possibility of making a life here.
Sidebar: The word “Tico” (male) or “Tica” (female) is an affectionate, non-derogatory nickname for Costa Ricans. It is derived from a mannerism while speaking Spanish where they frequently substitute “-tico” for the grammatically correct “-tito” and the end of words signifying something small. Example: “Momentito” is correct grammar for a “small moment”. The Costa Rican pronunciation is “Momentico.” Hence, “Tico.”
“In God We Trust, All Others Pay Cash” – Jean Shepherd
So, let’s start with arguably the most important deciding factor in your decision to move here – money. The cost of living in Costa Rica – as it relates to certain things such as rent, real estate taxes, capital gains tax, private schools and education, telecommunications, manual labor, healthcare, dental care, veterinary care, prescription drugs, legal fees, certain types of insurance, and locally grown produce – is relatively low, as compared to the U.S.
However, the costs of motor vehicles and just about anything associated with them, as well as certain types of real estate, construction, gasoline/diesel, electricity, food in general, electronics (essentially, anything imported), corporate and personal income taxes (over a certain amount), and sales tax can add up and cancel out a good-sized percentage of what you gain in the paragraph above.
As a general rule, a single person will need $1,500 to $2,000 a month of "spending money" to live comfortably in Costa Rica. More is better, though some people scrape by on less. So, you’ll obviously need some sort of fixed or generated income (virtual office?) to meet that mark. And if you’re retiring on a fixed income, make sure it’s adequate to support the lifestyle you want to live here. Remember: More is more. Yes, even in paradise.
Maybe you’re thinking about moving to Costa Rica, finding a job, and supporting yourself. Highly unlikely. First, salaries for both professionals and non-professionals are very low in comparison with the U.S., with the former being very scarce and extremely competitive. You’ll be shocked.
Second, you’ll have to establish Costa Rican permanent residency here in order to work legally. Temporary residents can own and administrate their own businesses in Costa Rica – such as vacation rentals, property management, or tours. But they cannot do any type of work that would take a job from a Costa Rican national. There are immigration attorneys who, for around $2,000, can guide you through the process of obtaining your residency.
Sidebar: The recent ratification of the New Immigration Regulation Law 9996 (“La Nueva Ley Inversionista 9996”) provides incentives for people who want to invest in and move to Costa Rica. A $150,000 investment in real estate, or certain other specified assets here, automatically qualifies an individual for temporary Investor Residency (“Residencia Inversionista”). After maintaining your temporary residency for a period of five years, you may become a permanent resident.
So, if you’re one of those who think they’re going to get off the plane, find a job that pays well, and then live the “Pura Vida” lifestyle happily ever after, then you’re still living in Kansas. And just in case you’re thinking about ducking under the table, working here illegally is frowned upon heavily by “Migración” (Immigration) and will get you an unscheduled plane ride back to from whence you came.
“Patience is the ability to idle your motor when you feel like stripping your gears.” – Barbara Johnson
Alright, you’ve got some bank and a monthly budget. You’ve done your homework and have found the perfect location and the perfect house in the perfect community – and the perfect Real Estate Agent to put you into it – Me!
As you settle into your new lifestyle, you’ll start to notice that the gears around here aren’t as greased as they are back home. That cool, chill, laid-back, not-a-care-on-Earth lifestyle that appealed to you so very much on vacation comes at a price – namely, time and accuracy.
The things that you took for granted that got done correctly in no time up north, might take hours, days, weeks, or months to happen here – and then be completely screwed up. And that puts patience in the number two position behind money for determining whether Costa Rica is the right place for you.
Many everyday tasks or services you encounter will take longer. Banks and clinics are the number one patience testers with their long lines, understaffing, and seemingly daily “Closed for the Holiday” schedules. And then there’s the Municipality – bureaucracy and red tape at a completely out of this world level. They can push many people to the brink.
Getting angry, showing frustration and – worst of all – yelling at someone in their face, are strictly taboo and should be avoided at all costs. Costa Ricans are without fault non-confrontational. Hotheads should invest in some anger management training, or they risk being marginalized or, worse yet, maliciously (but passive-aggressively) targeted by Tico society.
One also needs to be willing to deal with frequent “do-overs,” as getting things done correctly the first time tends to be an elusive target for most. You will need to be your lawyer’s lawyer, your accountant’s accountant, your gardener’s gardener, your mechanic’s mechanic, and so on. And your patience – and endurance – will be put to the test repeatedly. Perfectionists, beware! If on the third attempt it’s still not right, punt and say, “That’s good enough.”
“Life's too short to hang out with people who aren't resourceful.” –Jeff Bezos
There’s a word in English that’s used here in Costa Rica that you’ll hear on almost a daily basis – “McGyver” (pronounced Mah-GHEE-vair). If you’re unfamiliar with the term, it’s a reference to the 80’s TV series by the same name starring Richard Dean Anderson. His character, Angus “Mac” McGyver, was famous for his inventive use of common items. He always had a Swiss Army knife and a roll of duct tape on him. He could make an Airbus A320 out of a dozen popsicle sticks and a few coffee cans. And you will start doing the same when you move to Costa Rica!
That’s why being resourceful comes in at our number three position. No matter where you live, what you do, or where you go in Costa Rica you will be forced to be resourceful – frequently and on many different levels. Most people embark on just about any task with a Plan A and a Plan B. Because Plan A may not work – and that shouldn’t be a surprise.
Whether it’s bureaucratic red tape at the Municipality, telecommunications and internet issues, trying to make sure you get somewhere on time, paying bills, a banking error, fixing a leaky roof, constructing your own home, baking a cake, or the mother of all challenges – getting your car repaired – you will be forced to become a human Swiss Army knife.
You will also use a lot of duct tape and, my personal favorites, zip ties (figuratively and literally). And if you don’t, you will most likely be paying someone else to do your “McGyvering” for you. There’s no real escape. What you have planned for the day and the reality of how the day actually plays out are usually two very different things.
So, you should be asking yourself, “Am I the type of person who can go with the flow? Who can think on his or her feet? Who can find solutions when there are only problems – without completely losing it?” If the answer to those questions is, “Yes”, then a life in Costa Rica might just be right up your alley.
“A sense of humor is a major defense against minor troubles.” – Mignon McLaughlin
Last but definitely not least, in the number four position is your sense of humor. You need one. A very strong one.
It’s natural to get angry at things that don’t go your way and to feel bad that something didn’t work out as planned. But it’s also important to be able to laugh off that anger, frustration, and even sadness. Sarcasm is a wonderful tonic, though Costa Ricans, in general, don’t really understand it and may take you literally.
Bottom line: You can’t take life too seriously here. You’ll be drowned out. You need to be able to laugh at the crazy and the absurd. But more importantly, you must be able to laugh at yourself, too.
Take the Test.
Here’s a little questionnaire to use as a benchmark to see if Costa Rica might be a good fit for you. Answer each question on the following list. Be honest. Total your score using this simple point-based rating scale.
Rating Scale
No = 1 point
Sometimes = 2 points
Yes = 3 points
Add up your total score and we’ll see how it breaks down at the end of this assignment.
PART 1
____ Are you someone who is steadily persistent and who doesn't give up easily?
____ Are you on a fixed income? Or do you have enough savings/passive income that you don’t have to work?
____ Are you enthusiastic about trying out new and unusual foods, drinks, activities and experiences?
____ Are you street-smart?
____ Are you willing to learn the basics of conversational Spanish?
____ Are you of relatively sound mind and body?
____ Do you have an independent, pioneer, can-do mentality?
____ Are you willing to be patient in the face of grinding bureaucracy and a "mañana time" mindset?
PART 2
____ Will allergies and insect bites – especially mosquitoes – irritate you beyond the point of no return?
____ Can you tolerate "do-overs" with grace and dignity?
____ Do you respect wildlife (note: this extends to snakes, scorpions, and spiders)?
____ Can you tolerate long lines at the bank and/or clinic?
____ Are you a fan of pet-friendly restaurants?
____ Are you a person who rarely raises their voice and is non-confrontational?
____ Do you have an unwavering sense of humor in the face of surreal and/or absurd situations?
____ Can you just go with the flow?
____ Are you OK with NOT having to pump your own gas?
____ Can you change a tire?
____ Do you love rice and beans?
____ Are you adept at the art and science of "McGyvering"?
____ Can you take power and water outages in stride?
____ Does sand between your toes sound like your idea of entertainment?
PART 3
____ Are you OK with roosters?
____ TOTAL SCORE
So, how did you score? Though many of the questions were a bit tongue-and-cheek, they’re really not far off the mark of the reality of living in Costa Rica.
If your total score is:
- 54-69 points: You’re a “Tico- Gringo!” Pack your bags and start looking for a place to live now! You’ve got the fiscal security or a means of gaining it. You can deal with the curve balls that Costa Rica will throw at you on a daily basis – and be able to hit them out of the park. And there’s no shame in settling on an infield double either. You’ll do fine.
- 40-53 points: Rent first. Don’t dive into the deep end yet. You probably have some of the traits needed to survive and thrive here, but you lack some that could make you or break you. It would be best for you to see if you can better develop them by testing the waters first. You’ll know soon enough whether Costa Rica is right for you.
- 20-39 points: Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Stay in Kansas.
Costa Rica is undoubtedly a fantastic world travel destination and continues to break records annually for number of visitors. But your vacation is one thing; a major lifestyle change is another. It is important not to romanticize the latter so much. You’re no longer on vacation. Be realistic and honest with yourself about the reality of living here.
This ain't Kansas.